Packing for a ryokan trip is different from packing for a hotel stay, because the ryokan provides more than most travellers expect. Understanding what is already waiting in your room changes the calculation considerably and usually means you can travel with a smaller bag than you planned. Read more →
The autumn foliage season in Japan, known as koyo, is one of the most beautiful things the country produces. It is also one of the most misunderstood by visitors who assume it happens everywhere at the same time. The peak moves south and downhill through October and November, which means timing your trip to a specific region makes a significant difference to what you actually see.
Japan has over three thousand onsen towns, which is a wonderful problem to have and also a genuinely confusing one. For older travellers who want comfort and quiet rather than novelty, the choice matters more than it might for someone who is happy to improvise. The wrong onsen town. Too crowded, too hilly, baths too deep. Can turn a restorative trip into an exhausting one. This is a guide to three towns we know well.
Japan is, in many respects, a remarkably accessible country. The train system is punctual and well-signed, most major stations have lifts, and the culture of attentive service means that asking for help is rarely awkward. But there are also genuine challenges, particularly in older buildings and rural areas, that are worth knowing about before you travel.
A ryokan stay is one of the most distinctive experiences Japan offers, and also one of the most misunderstood by first-time visitors. The etiquette is not complicated, but it is specific, and arriving without any preparation can make the first few hours feel uncertain. This guide covers the things that matter most.
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